08.09.07 kulturnatib

A new discovery of the old

Anton Ego, the crowish food critic and tasting terror in all off Paris, sums up the movie Ratatouille beautifully. He writes a review of the revitalized Cafe Gusteau whose main chef, it is revealed to him, is, incredibly now, a rat. In the first part of this review, that turns out to be a valedictory as well as he is fired for crowing about a rat, he says something about critics that I like.

This bears an extensive quote; “In many ways the work of the critic is easy. We risk very little yet enjoy the position of those who offer up their work and their selves to our judgment. We thrive on negative criticism which is fun to write and to read but the bitter truth we critics must face is that the average junk is probably more meaningful than our criticism designating it so. But there are times that a critic truly risks something and that is in the discovery and defense of the new. . . .”

Watching or listening to Ego read out his review – with the inimitable voice of Sir Peter O'Toole – as he writes it reminded me that being a critic is sometimes what I do. How true what he says.

Especially that last line in the above quote.

Yet, there are risks and Risks. The latter we experienced recently.

Recently, my partner and I were in Siquijor. We had planned this trip some while ago. Only this time did we have the opportunity to put into action our plans.

Our plan was to bicycle around the island, reputed for its mystical attractions and terrors as well. As with many islands in the Visayas, this was easily accessible from Cebu.

The same accessibility goaded Jens Funk, a German with Cebuano kasing-kasing (heart), as he vehemently puts it, into the exploring the Visayas on two wheels. Not only that, he has written the first ever bicycle guide to these islands and more; Palawan, Romblon, etc.

Armed with this book, “Cycling Philippines : Visayas Edition” we boarded the slow boat to Larena. Immediately we hit upon what the book in Page 16, 'Useful Hints' says of traveling on boat with bikes. There is mention of 'Arrastre.' The explanation of what this is is somewhat confusing.

Truth is, this is extremely confusing. But it is a 'Bill of Lading' that is required in order for bikes to board the boat. But, as the book suggests, if the bike is contained in a bag, this bill does not apply. Why? Who knows?

The 'arrastre' part is the monopoly 'rights' of a port handling company who considers all cargo to be subject to a handling fee whether or not they do any handling at all. Not all ports have the sophistication or curse to have such monopoly. Cebu City port is cursed with this highway-robbing monopoly.

On the boat, we are already planning our bike routes. The book offers plenty of options, detailed ones at that. We have our tentative course for our 3-day jaunt. This, pending what the real conditions would be on arrival; weather, road conditions, physical resistance.

We arrive at night. We are glad that there are street lights, as few and far between as they are. Our own lights are either underpowered or do not focus well. We find our resort, a quarter of a kilometer from the main coastal highway that is well paved and maintained, we learn later.

Morning is blanketed with clouds. We've agreed to take the route that goes northeastward from the resort up to Maria and then cuts across to Basak at the peak then downwards to Larena. The climb to Basak is a bit strenous and persistent. But the views are well worth it. Our bikes though are showing more their age than we are. The gears complain, are recalcitrant and you feel them in your teeth.

After a forced rest in Basak due to rains that have held back till then, it was downhill all the way to Larena in slopes that told us the wisdom of the route we took. Going the other way would have surely been a killer.

The next day was the round about Siquijor. We took the southwestward or counter-clockwise route. As the book says, nothing in Siquijor is flat. Indeed. But, the inclines were manageable. All the better in looking forward to the downward freewheels on the other side. Starting off early at 8am, we completed the circuit of 73 kilometers by 5pm. Not a speed for winning any race, but it was an easy, rest punctuated ride that had us fully appreciating the sights, smells and simple but sumptuous food.

Thursday was rest day. Friday we leave. Again, in rain threatened and smothered weather. We bike to Siquijor, the capital municipality, with hours to spare before we board the fast craft that slices the sea to Dumaguete like a bucking zipper.

Back in Cebu, we write notes on the book. A fine whittle to an excellent work, really.